Stealthshooter wrote:Great product even better service!! Thanks Ross!
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If this hasn't occurred to anyone with a Ross brake. When you're done cleaning the bore, floss through the gills with a paper tower twirled to a point to wick any solvent out as it tends to pool in there. If you don't, when you put it in the case, the muzzle end of the case can accumulate the solvent and some materials, like foam rubber, do not like some of the solvents we use. If you remove the brake to clean your bore, disregard.
WRT frequent brake removal and re-installation, here's a slick trick to get around the brake not indexing anymore. Plumbers Tape. On my .300 WSSM, the barrel didn't come with a crush washer or shims and of course, it indexed about 10 degrees past TDC. Layer up enough teflonated plumbers tape to make it hard to turn (not seized) and it'll stay there until you need to take it off. After removal, pick the tape out from the threads on both the brake and muzzle threads, reapply and put it back on. A roll of tape will do countless mounts and to date, has resisted the heat and cleaning solvents, which is a big deal. A lot of folks using just the crush washer don't realize that some solvents should not be allowed to wick into the threads and dry repeatedly, as some of them can corrode regular and stainless steel over time. Most folks with chromed bores don't use copper solvent, but it is an example of a corrosive (over time) solution.
Hoot
