450Bushmaster.net

My Brake arrived today. Very nice. Gotta decide about Blue or Parkerized now.

Not to jack the thread, but I've given up on cold blues. I bet I've bought just about every kind that Brownells sells and they all suck. I'm good with chemicals and at following directions and I don't care what any sales puke tells you. They don't compare to hot salt blue. Not even close. I'd use blue GunKote or DuraKote before I waste any more money on cold blues. Lot of color choices with DuraKote and GunKote including one that resembles manganese parkerizing like the Bushy has. That stuff is as tough as JB Weld.

I just got a 24" SS 6.5 Grendel barrel and bolt for a fun project. Not that it recoils much, but the barrel is threaded, so I'm inclined to get yet another Ross brake for it or at least a thread protector. Too bad he threaded my .300 OSSM barrel to 9/16-28 as the new 6.5G barrel is threaded 9/16-24. I could've shared the brake. Hindsight is 20-20.

Hoot

I just got a 450 upper and man do I have a problem! I now find out that the threaded supressor that comes with it is illegal in NYS! Even if I have it welded, the design is still considered illegal here. I can buy one of Rosses brakes and that would solve the design issue but how can I get it permanently attached? It has to be pinned and the pin welded or the brake it's self has to be totally welded on. Any ideas?
Jim

If you use a brake that does not have wrench flats, you can attach it with silver solder or green locktite. When I was in NY for my last job I had a smith in Weedsport make and install a custom Gentry quiet brake for mine. This guy is in the business of making NY legal brakes for slug guns, and he is good at it. The local DEC guys I ran into were all OK with it. As long as they can't remove it, they didn't care what exactly was holding it on.
BD

That's some very nice silver soldering work!

Just so everyone understands. If you have it silver soldered, you will also be having it re-blued, re-parked, repainted. It takes a lot of heat to flow silver solder. 1,250F for the soft stuff. 1425F for the hard stuff. That's blood red to cherry red.

Hoot

Yeah, nice work! I've used silver solder quite a bit and that's the cleanest job I've ever seen. Of course in A/C work you don't have to be that neat.
I ordered a brake from Ross today and it's already shipped! I'll take pics after it's installed.

Jeepejeep wrote:Yeah, nice work! I've used silver solder quite a bit and that's the cleanest job I've ever seen. Of course in A/C work you don't have to be that neat.
I ordered a brake from Ross today and it's already shipped! I'll take pics after it's installed.

Remember that you're not soldering a high pressure pipe. It only take a little bit to immobilize the brake. The "Easy Solder" silver solder paste works well for this. Clean and degrease the threads. Brush it on the inside and outside threads like anti-seize. Screw it on. Register the top holes. Put the torch to it.

Hoot

I use a muzzle break from Ross in stainless. Will the silver solder work with stainless? Will that kind of heat damage the barrel?

FirstNation wrote:I use a muzzle break from Ross in stainless. Will the silver solder work with stainless? Will that kind of heat damage the barrel?

There are silver solders that work with stainless as well, including some of the easy pastes. The easy pastes tend to be some of the lower temp mixes. At this point, I'm going to advise anyone considering heating their barrel that hot to consult with a barrel smith on the proper way to do it as well as the proper cooling rate to prevent causing a martensitic transformation. (too brittle)

Unless the enforcement people insist upon a gunsmith certification of what it was soldered with, you could get away with an Ag/Sn soft solder. though it's referred to as soft solder, that stuff can get pretty hard without incurring such high temperatures and for all outward appearance, will be permanently mounted. If you hit all the threaded area, it'll probably be stronger than a pinned and welded hole mount in the long run.

Hoot

Thanks, Hoot. This looks like the way to go. I doubt the heat would be more than welding so I think it's OK.