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I had noticed on several threads on the site, that guys spent money on "scope levelers". A cheap (as in free) fix I use, is to take a heavy string, tie a loop in the bottom, and hang a heavy object from it. (I use a heavy Master padlock) I then rest the rifle from a couple rooms away, and get the vertical crosshair centered on the string. Seems to work for me.

That's what I use but for it to be accurate, you need to have the rifle plumb as well. I took the glass bubble cartridge out of a level and I lay it crosswise on one of the picatinny rail slots to establish the receiver being level, before leveling the scope. I work on a lot of friend's rifles and judging from what I've seen, its often hard to fathom how they determined their scopes were level when they mounted them. Canting does matter.

Hoot

Yea I have all the levels and gagets. Most scopes are mounted off a little but are close enough for hunting. I can eyeball it closer than the levels sometimes. The little levels are often not accurate, you need a couple of them and check them. Many of them are not level. Then the base of the gun or the caps can be off a little. All that can add up to a scope that is not lined up correctly.

One way is to level the gun using a flat spot on the gun (some guns don;t have one) Get that spot level then you have to put another level clamped on the barrel because the first one might have to be moved off for the scope or it could fall off adjusting things. Once you have the clamped level on the barrrel you can do away with the first level and use the one on the barrel. Use a plumb line to get the cross hairs level and you are done. But you still might have some issues if the base is not perfect or the rings are off to the side. This will cause cant errors. Usually too small to be noticed hunting.

The most accurate way requires you to have a level permanently mounted on the gun.
You use a mirror to align the cross hairs with the center of the barrel. No plumb line is needed, no level is needed for this step.

Once you get the scopes cross hairs aligned with the center of the barrel you mount a small level on the scope. Use a plumb line and match the cross hairs to it. Then adjust the mounted scope level so the bubble is in the center. DONE.

Now when you shoot as long as you use that gun level there will be no cant errors.

Hoot wrote:That's what I use but for it to be accurate, you need to have the rifle plumb as well. I took the glass bubble cartridge out of a level and I lay it crosswise on one of the picatinny rail slots to establish the receiver being level, before leveling the scope. I work on a lot of friend's rifles and judging from what I've seen, its often hard to fathom how they determined their scopes were level when they mounted them. Canting does matter.

Hoot

Abso friggin l;ootly!!

I have been investing in scope levels for last couple years and am getting to have one on all rifles that shoot past 100 yards. I am definitely seeing better groups when I watch to see I'm consistently square and level.

CW

I use two small levels, one resting on a flat spot on the rifle (e.g., the picatinny rail) and the other on the scope (the top of the elevation adjustment cap). Get them both level, then watch them closely as you tighten down on the ring screws.

That being said, I'm only shooting out to hunting distances ~ 300 yds. An minor cant that remains won't make much difference at those ranges in Minute of Deer terms.

Don't tell my neighbors but, their brick wall is plumb and square.

Sitting in my garage as I mount and boresight a scope. Using a string level to level the picatinny rail first, pick a spot (thru the bore) on their wall and match the reticle to an intersection of brick and slowly tighten the rings.

Garage doors work too. Better when no one is home to ask questions...

Sharps45-70 wrote:I had noticed on several threads on the site, that guys spent money on "scope levelers". A cheap (as in free) fix I use, is to take a heavy string, tie a loop in the bottom, and hang a heavy object from it. (I use a heavy Master padlock) I then rest the rifle from a couple rooms away, and get the vertical crosshair centered on the string. Seems to work for me.

I do this also , except I shine a bright flashlight backwards through the scope and it projects the reticle on the background extremely crisp and line the verticle part of the crosshair with the plumb line, with the receiver level. you have to adjust the diopter and the magnification to focus the projection. This can be done as little as 10ft from a wall, lighter backgrounds work best. Works very well for me.

Levels don't lie...

CW