AR Homedone Trigger Job...

[9x19MdM]

The limit of adjustment is the upper rear of the trigger contacting the safety. If you crank the set screw up too much, you won't be able to or it will be difficult to operate the safety.

As seen here? This is from the 1st link at the top of this thread.

[MrRowdy]

So, it looks to me more and more, that my fire control group is questionable. The limit of adjustment is the upper rear of the trigger contacting the safety. If you crank the set screw up too much, you won't be able to or it will be difficult to operate the safety.

Not necessarily, but I suppose every trigger is a little different. Like I said, if I back the screw off to let the trigger come down just enough to release the hammer from the disconnector I still have enough upward movement between the trigger and the safety to release the hammer when I pull the trigger and it has enough room that the safety still functions properly when the hammer is cocked.

[etijsma]

yes, thanks for posting this as im still learning the ar platform. i may just do the first link tonight if i have the correct set screw laying around.

[mnhornet]

So, it looks to me more and more, that my fire control group is questionable. The limit of adjustment is the upper rear of the trigger contacting the safety. If you crank the set screw up too much, you won't be able to or it will be difficult to operate the safety.

Not necessarily, but I suppose every trigger is a little different. Like I said, if I back the screw off to let the trigger come down just enough to release the hammer from the disconnector I still have enough upward movement between the trigger and the safety to release the hammer when I pull the trigger and it has enough room that the safety still functions properly when the hammer is cocked.

In a previous post you stated there is a slight drag when you apply the safety. I simply ment that if you jack up the set screw too far there is more than a "slight drag" on the safety selector. Maybe I should ammend what I wrote yesterday by saying interference between the trigger and the safety, limit the amount of possible adjustment.

I like the set screw mod, and will try it again on this carbine, paying closer attention to the safety checks. Maybe I just got lucky on my varmint gun. A .223 going full auto is quite managable, and embarrassing, a .450 would be uncontrollable, please be careful out there.

[MrRowdy]

You're right, if I were to turn the screw in further there would be interferrence between the trigger and safety selector but I wouldn't be able to get the safety selector into the rifle since it is the last part that I install. Not only that but the gun would be inoperable because if I turned the set screw in any further the trigger would not return to the forward position enough to release the hammer from the disconnector. I just find the happy spot where everything is working but any more adjustment would render the trigger and safety assemblies inoperable. Playing it safe by backing the screw out a little would be simple enough.

[9x19MdM]

Apparently the $49 Palmetto State Armory lowers are not completely threaded in the grip bolt hole. I guess I'll see if my cheap tap and die set has the correct tap I need.

[Hoot]

Apparently the $49 Palmetto State Armory lowers are not completely threaded in the grip bolt hole. I guess I'll see if my cheap tap and die set has the correct tap I need.

Make that "long enough tap I need"...

Hoot

[9x19MdM]

Apparently the $49 Palmetto State Armory lowers are not completely threaded in the grip bolt hole. I guess I'll see if my cheap tap and die set has the correct tap I need.

Make that "long enough tap I need"...

Hoot

I love it when a plan comes together... and this was not one of those times! The tap is plenty long enough and the correct size, 1/4x28, but the threads seem to tight and I'd hate to bugger up the working threads in the lower. I'll go get a 1/4x28 nut tomorrow and see if I can "cut" the threads on the tap.

[Hoot]

Apparently the $49 Palmetto State Armory lowers are not completely threaded in the grip bolt hole. I guess I'll see if my cheap tap and die set has the correct tap I need.

Make that "long enough tap I need"...

Hoot

I love it when a plan comes together... and this was not one of those times! The tap is plenty long enough and the correct size, 1/4x28, but the threads seem to tight and I'd hate to bugger up the working threads in the lower. I'll go get a 1/4x28 nut tomorrow and see if I can "cut" the threads on the tap.

It may just seem like your well lubricated tap is buggering the threads if they are parkerized. It is after all a mineral crystal (abrasive) finish. If you feel it's lined up correctly, the lubricating oil is not choaked and they actually drilled the original hole all the way through before partially threading it, then just work that tap through. When the going's tough, just remove the tap more frequently, clean off the chips and refresh the lubricant. It'll be fine.

I do know of one fellow who's screw got galled in because he did not lubricate the threads before torquing it in and he buggered the threads getting it back out. He turned around and re-tapped it 7x1mm and was fine. The 7x1 screw fit up in the grip channel just fine.

Hoot

[mnhornet]

One of my dpms lowers needed to be tapped. Heading out shortly to give the carbine a go. Changed the FCGto the one that was in the .450 , and was a little less agressive on the adjustment. The disconnector had 100% lock-up so, I hope to avoid any embarassment.