AR Homedone Trigger Job...

[MrRowdy]

After seeing some interest in improving the trigger pull on AR's I rounded up a couple links that will help you drastically improve the factory Mil-spec trigger. I've done this on a number of AR's and the result is a very short clean and safe trigger pull. The changes are minimal and if for some reason you don't like it you can always put it right back with the purchase of a couple springs.

Here are the links. I perform both of these along with polishing the sear surfaces and will put it up against any single stage aftermarket trigger.

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/firearms/ar-15/ar08.html

http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

The second link involves altering the trigger and hammer springs. The change to the hammer spring results in a much lighter hammer drop but as is stated in the link by the author, I have yet to encounter one single failure to ignite the primer. If you are worried about it I recommend that you simply try performing the modification on the first link and seeing what you think. The first link will greatly reduce take-up,creep and overtravel while the second will lighten the actual trigger pull. Now since the combination of both modifications both reduces spring tension on the hammer and trigger sear surfaces and reduces the amount of sear engagement it is VERY improtant that you insure that the safety is still operating properly and that the hammer won't drop when the safety is off due to a jolt. After it's all together I take the lower and with the safety selector in the "fire" position and, for lack of a better term, beat the living snot out of the thing to make sure the hammer won't fall on accident. Since you are just handling the lower seperate from the upper you aren't going to harm anything by slamming the butt stock on the floor etc.

One more note on the first link. When I put the set screw in I lightly screw it in until it wants to stop then cock the hammer back and slowly back the screw out until the disconnector releases the hammer and find this to be the "sweet spot". If you are worried about sear engagement you can continue backing the screw out until you are happy, this will increase the amount of sear engagement but wil also increase trigger creep.

Have fun.

[wildcatter]

MrRowdy just joined, less than several weeks ago, and already he's doing Yeomen's work!

Thou, these have been posted before, I think, it shows your willingness to take care of the Group and re-posting this is a great thing to keep in front of us, even if we may have already seen it before.

Thanks Man..

..t

[lungingturtle2]

Mr.Rowdy, thank-you very much for the link,I had seen a description of this procedure before, but this explains it much better. One correction though, the grip screw thread is 1/4-28 tpi., not 1/4-20 tpi. Thanks again, Turtle2.

[MrRowdy]

Sorry for throwing these out again. Figured it would be helpful for some. And yes, 1/4-28. I made a set screw from a headlight adjuster screw from my old '68 Chevelle.

[Texas Sheepdawg]

Yeah, this is an ongoing discussion at the Texas Sheepdawgs' Campfire on FB.
Good night all! "TIme for go to bed" as Torg would say.

[mnhornet]

I've done these upgrades with mixed results. My coyote rifle turned out perfect. Very little creep, and a "nice" AR trigger. I have had trouble with a carbine of mine, that has gone into happy mode on more than one occasion, and had to be returned to the gritty stock config. This could be an issue with the original LPK fire control parts. I have since, put a CMMG 2 stage in my .450, and may attempt the set screw mod with the LPK I removed. The set screw trick is a great way to improve the creep, and even without the spring mod makes for a nice crisp trigger.

[MrRowdy]

I've done these upgrades with mixed results. My coyote rifle turned out perfect. Very little creep, and a "nice" AR trigger. I have had trouble with a carbine of mine, that has gone into happy mode on more than one occasion, and had to be returned to the gritty stock config. This could be an issue with the original LPK fire control parts. I have since, put a CMMG 2 stage in my .450, and may attempt the set screw mod with the LPK I removed. The set screw trick is a great way to improve the creep, and even without the spring mod makes for a nice crisp trigger.

Your carbine went full auto after lightening the springs? Was the disconnector not catching the hammer spur? I must admit that I have no experience with any full auto trigger groups so I no idea how they truly work, but in the semi auto setup I simply can't see how it could go full auto by mistake. The carrier comes back pushing the hammer down where the disconnector "captures" it until you allow the trigger to go forward releasing the disconnector and engaging the hammer and trigger sear surfaces. Even if a guy was to remove the disconnector all together I'd have a hard time seeing how the hammer following the carrier would set off the primer on the following round. I'd think you'd just turn your rifle into a single shot.

Any insight for me? I like filling my brain with all info and experiences from others that I can so I can avoid such concerns.

[mnhornet]

This last time, I had stock springs in it. I left the safety in and adjusted the set screw until the trigger was elevated enough to touch the safety selector. I didn't remove any matierial from the trigger as in the write up.
A leo friend was shooting it this last time, and trying to get it to malfunction, with different trigger release pressures. I'll try this again with my available fire control group, and see if that is the issue, as stated in the write up. I will follow the safety checks in the write up, and see if I screwed up in mine.

[MrRowdy]

When I've done mine using the set screw I always removed the safety and always been able to put it back in with the hammer and trigger groups installed, no need to clearance the trigger. Don't get me wrong, when engaging the safety to the safe position there is some slight drag as the round portion of the safety blocks the triggers upward movement but not much. If there wasn't enough clearance between the trigger and the safety you simply wouldn't be able to pull the trigger and release the hammer. Now if a guy was to remove too much material from the trigger where it meets the safety there would be an excess of trigger overtravel and the safety could possibly become inoperabel if a lot of material were removed.

I adjust mine a bit different though and that may make some difference. I remove the safety and with the hammer down all the way, as in holding it as far down as it will go I adjust the set screw in until the disconnector won't release the hammer when your finger ain't on the trigger, then let go of the hammer and I slowly turn the screw out until the disconnector lets go of the hammer. I then check for possible bump firing and as long as there is none I reinstall the safety selector, check it's operation and reassemble.

[mnhornet]

So, it looks to me more and more, that my fire control group is questionable. The limit of adjustment is the upper rear of the trigger contacting the safety. If you crank the set screw up too much, you won't be able to or it will be difficult to operate the safety.