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Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 6:53 pm
by 450Buschmaster
Just to update this thread. I emailed Ross about a 4 port brake for my first 450B build and he replied within an hour on a Saturday. Then I PayPal'd him the money Sunday and he told me he'd be dropping it off at the post office that day.

I haven't got it yet, but have no concerns. And that email still works.

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 3:48 am
by Al in Mi
your gonna love it!!

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 4:55 am
by MOOSE EARS
The email works and so do the Ross brakes! Just don't let anyone stand beside it when you shoot...

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:39 pm
by 450Buschmaster
One final question - whats the best way to time the Ross brake? Crush washer? Shims? I've got a SS Barrel, plan on leaving the brake SS as well, so SS crush washer (shims) would make the most sense.

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 1:12 pm
by Hoot
450Buschmaster wrote:One final question - whats the best way to time the Ross brake? Crush washer? Shims? I've got a SS Barrel, plan on leaving the brake SS as well, so SS crush washer (shims) would make the most sense.


You can buy a crush washer or shim pack or what some of us are fond of using, which is PTFE plumbers tape, built up on the threads until the brake meets your preferred tightness. An added bonus to using the plumbers tape is that it effectively seals the threads. If you clean with the brake on, solvents that come out the end ahead of the patch, can wick back down the threads. Depending upon which solvents you use, they can attack the metal when left there over time. Crush washers and shims will not stop thin solvents and I'm thinking like copper removing or any of the water based ones. In a perfect world, you would remove the brake before cleaning or at least every once in a while to clean those threads off. We're not perfect however. ;) A roll of plumbers tape is cheap and will do a lot of brake remounts.

Hoot

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 9:12 am
by plant_one
you can also use a small ammount of high temp RTV gasket maker from the auto parts store. it even comes in black.

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 8:16 pm
by Texas Sheepdawg
I use heavy duty Teflon tape. (Grey in color). Have been using it for almost 8 years and never had a problem.

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:13 pm
by befus
OK. I had my Ross brake out to install complete with stainless crush washer. I had a heck of a time getting the old crush washer off and eventually had to notch it deeply with a dremel and break it to get the job done. Yes, I was nervous. The Ross brake was turned so finely it matched the barrel diameter perfectly and I hated to mess with it, but I had the stuff and went ahead. I noticed the washer I put on was pretty loose and could be moved a little from side to side and when I crushed it it did so unevenly and I was fearful to torque it more. I wasn't all bad a I really didn't want to use it as the brake itself was almost perfectly timed to the point that hard hand tight went just past the ideal. It occurred to me a shim, almost any shim, would work as close as it was, but again. I really didn't want the thing sticking out past the brake/barrel union. Then I saw this plumber's tape stuff! Am I correct that if I get some yellow, or gray tape, and put five or so raps around the threads all I have to do is get a snug fit and tighten to the sweet spot and I am good to go? Sounds impossible that it won't vibrate loose, but too many here use it to doubt really.

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 8:56 pm
by Hoot
befus wrote:OK. I had my Ross brake out to install complete with stainless crush washer. I had a heck of a time getting the old crush washer off and eventually had to notch it deeply with a dremel and break it to get the job done. Yes, I was nervous. The Ross brake was turned so finely it matched the barrel diameter perfectly and I hated to mess with it, but I had the stuff and went ahead. I noticed the washer I put on was pretty loose and could be moved a little from side to side and when I crushed it it did so unevenly and I was fearful to torque it more. I wasn't all bad a I really didn't want to use it as the brake itself was almost perfectly timed to the point that hard hand tight went just past the ideal. It occurred to me a shim, almost any shim, would work as close as it was, but again. I really didn't want the thing sticking out past the brake/barrel union. Then I saw this plumber's tape stuff! Am I correct that if I get some yellow, or gray tape, and put five or so raps around the threads all I have to do is get a snug fit and tighten to the sweet spot and I am good to go? Sounds impossible that it won't vibrate loose, but too many here use it to doubt really.


Just get the "el cheapo" white rolls at Harbor Freight, or in the impulse bins at the checkout lines in hardware stores. They all work fine. The stuff really helps keep bore cleaning solvents and condensation, yes burning powder creates H2O as part of the reaction, from wicking back behind the brake. In all likelihood, that's why your steel on steel crush washer got stuck.

and another thing... Who's idea was it to make a muzzle brake (different brand) out of aluminum?! That's a galvanic reaction looking for a place to happen, if you don't apply a good coating of air displacing, anti-seize grease of some kind. Which also means refreshing it every time you take the brake off and put it back on.

Plumber's tape seals those threads pretty effectively, while providing the necessary friction that keeps the brake timed. Yes, it can tax your patience, picking those little filament strands of it out of the threads (internal as well as external) before putting some fresh on but that's the only price of admission. There is elegance in simplicity, especially cheap simplicity. Image

Hoot

Re: Recoil reduction and muzzle brakes highlights.

PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:28 am
by befus
Hoot wrote:
Plumber's tape seals those threads pretty effectively, while providing the necessary friction that keeps the brake timed. Yes, it can tax your patience, picking those little filament strands of it out of the threads (internal as well as external) before putting some fresh on but that's the only price of admission. There is elegance in simplicity, especially cheap simplicity.

Hoot

Got'er done. I put seven wraps on first as I wanted it tight, but the brake just pushed it back against the barrel shoulder, so in the "If all else fails, follow instructions" mode I went back to five, and it went right on. Fairly tight and well timed currently, I look forward to a range trip when I get my reloads ready.