450Bushmaster.net

I did this to an ar10, it slows the bolt enough it quit marking the brass with the extractor
havent done it to the BM yet

If I'm not wrong, this is a great idea if you have several uppers and one lower and switch them out. This way you don't need to be changing buffers and springs for the upper that you put on, the weight would stay with the upper and all is "good".
I was reading about one of the members (don't remember off hand) that was working up loads and he was using the front gas block on the 20 inch to change the cycle rate. Could that also be done with more or less weight in the carrier?
Hope I have a grasp on the concept as I am new and just learning how the AR works.

gunnuttwo wrote:If I'm not wrong, this is a great idea if you have several uppers and one lower and switch them out. This way you don't need to be changing buffers and springs for the upper that you put on, the weight would stay with the upper and all is "good".
I was reading about one of the members (don't remember off hand) that was working up loads and he was using the front gas block on the 20 inch to change the cycle rate. Could that also be done with more or less weight in the carrier?
Hope I have a grasp on the concept as I am new and just learning how the AR works.

I personally have never experimented with the gas system because the impact of varying it changes with each load change and with all the loads I experimented with I didn't want to have to be constantly re-tuning it. Perhaps others can chime in who have experimented with it.

Hoot

I do have a JP gas block on my Ar chambered in 5.56 with a 20" barrel that is adjustable. I did that so I could tune it when I use sub-sonic loads, but most of the time it is just half open for normal loads. I use these varmint hunting in senstive areas that require stoping in the animal no blow throughs. I didn't think of using it on my 450 though. Everytime I get on these forums I have hours of time tearing down rifles to switch out parts on other rifles. You guys are killing me.

Hi guys...newbie here, but I have some new info regarding this topic: I've found a place in Oregon that sells lead (Pb) rod stock in small quantities, even in inch units. They manufacture lead rod in several diameters, including 0.625". I've asked them for a quote for buying foot-long lengths of this rod.

The plan is to buy a foot of the 0.625" rod, measure it for diameter accuracy, and see if it is suitable for this bolt carrier weight DIY mod. This would save a lot of admittedly fun fooling around with molten metal, but I think it would speed up and simplify the modification process greatly.

I might even be able to assemble some "kits" with the sized, textured, and degreased rod in a Ziploc bag, a blister pack of J-B Weld, and some of the little mixing and spreading bits and pieces. Cost plus shipping to those who want to save some time/effort. ???

Anyway, just an idea for the time being.

Note to Hoot: Dude, I know what you mean about casting lead stuff as a kid...my grandpa and I used to get together and cast lead "tin soldiers" and all sorts of other stuff that you used to be able to buy molds for back in the day. I'm guessing none of that would pass the Consumer Products Safety Commission muster these days?

UPDATE to above post: Well, turns out that 0.625" lead rod stock is...$20.00 per inch!!! Takes some of the steam out of my argument, when no money is saved over buying a store-boughten CWS...oops.

I guess I'll just start scrounging up some lead and git ta meltin'...

Great post, though, Hoot!

commander faschisto wrote:UPDATE to above post: Well, turns out that 0.625" lead rod stock is...$20.00 per inch!!! Takes some of the steam out of my argument, when no money is saved over buying a store-boughten CWS...oops.

I guess I'll just start scrounging up some lead and git ta meltin'...

Great post, though, Hoot!

PM inbound.

Hoot

Forgive me but would a stronger buffer spring not accomplish the same thing without all this additional work? A weighted carrier slows the reaction of the bolt carrier to move rearward thus increasing lock time. A stronger buffer spring increases the forward force upon the bolt carrier making it more difficult to move rearward thus also accomplishing the increased lock time and slower movement of the bolt carrier. Either way, in a full auto rifle decreased rounds per minute (cyclic rate) would be the result. Am I missing something? Sort of the same thing as a heavy buffer; slower resulting rearward carrier movement.

Not only this but I find the recoil of my 450 anything but harsh and brutal. I've taken more punishment from a few rounds of skeet with a 20 gauge than a day at the range. Blast 20-30 rounds from a 45-70 lever gun, 7mm or 30 caliber mag bolt gun and you'll sing praises for the mild recoil of the 450 in an AR.

Don't mean to disagree with a proven method; just asking questions

Well, I finally got my CCWS installed. May be a little while until I get to try it, but I'm looking forward to it.

Colohunter wrote:Well, I finally got my CCWS installed. May be a little while until I get to try it, but I'm looking forward to it.

Great news!

Can't wait to hear how you like it. Have you cycled and dropped the hammer to make sure everything clears the weight, or hasn't it set up yet? If you are not using a curing oven, make sure it has at least two days to set up good at room temp. It has a tough life ahead of it,

Hoot