Page 1 of 1

Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 5:44 pm
by ryr8828
Took my 16" .450 in to get a free float quad rail forearm put on so I could try out a magpul afg. When I went to pick it up they said they couldn't get the gas block off, it was on there. They didn't want to beat on it and tear something up.
They said they tried heat. Told me if I could get it off or give them some tip to bring it back.

My vise is in a non airconditioned area, I ain't going out there.

Any tips?

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:34 pm
by Siringo
Someplace on this site -- someone described removing the gas block. If I remember correctly, they had to heat it up. Bushmaster used a loctite type product and when they heated it, it bubble out -- then it could be tapped off. Maybe that person is reading this and can provide better details.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:22 pm
by gunnut
Yes, you have to heat it up. Don't have to get it red hot, Just enough to melt the loc tite. I heated it a little at a time and taped on it with a wood dowel. Don't know why they use the loc tite. It rest against a shoulder on the barrel and has an index drilled for the set screws. You may want to heat it to get the set screws out as well. They are very tight.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:11 pm
by 2zero6
I used heat and a rubber mallet when I switched to a railed gas block.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:30 am
by ryr8828
Well I need to set up a vice inside in the air conditioning and do it myself I guess.

I'm not sure that it's really worth it, I don't hate the aluminum that much. I'm not into lights and lasers and other mall ninja stuff, just wanted to try a magpul afg.
Bushmaster loves them some loctite. My first bushmaster 5.56 had a pinned fake collapsible stock on it which I changed out. It took a lot of heat and some pretty serious whacks with a hammer and punch to get that castle nut off.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 6:51 am
by Siringo
Maybe you could add a screw on rail to the tube. JP Enterprises sells add on rails for their VTech handguard and it is the same diameter as the Bushmaster. You would need to drill and tap a couple of small holes.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 4:49 pm
by ryr8828
I almost went and bought the stuff today to attempt this myself. Then I decided to think on it another day.

What I'm thinking if I do it is I'll put a low profile gas block back on it and use mid length hand guards with a cap.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 5:57 pm
by Siringo
I had contacted Bushmaster about putting a rifle length handguard on mine. They would do the install. Price was just parts + shipping. Then I thought about it and left it the same.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:58 pm
by ryr8828
I'm going to abandon this quadrail project, shoot it as is and maybe put a magpul 1-2 point sling on it to give me some more leverage instead of the single point I have now.
Converting my saiga is a higher priority. Thanks to all of you who offered helpful advice.

Re: Removing Carbine Gas Block

PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:16 am
by thebrassnuckles
Removing the railed block huh?

BTDT.

brutal.

We got the front screw out fine, a bit tough but nothing to wet your pants over..

on to the next screw, insert allen key... turn allen key...

allen key breaks. all hell breaks loose.

we get the other screw out after using some heat.

try drilling out the allen key from the center screw, as it is now stuck in there for life.

not happening.

well i'll just gring down the rails on the block so i can fit the handguard over it and put on my new longer one..

that wasnt too bad.... ok lets pull off the handgua... DAMNIT! gotta take off the gas block to remove the gas tube, to remove the handguard.

Called it quits for that day,
I get home, i take my trusty dremel tool with a thin cutting wheel on it, and I cut a slot in the gas block, thus turning the allen screw into a flat head screw, I then proceed to break my favorite flathead screwdriver.. twice, after regrinding the tip on it, I took a torch and heated the block up and it finally came out.

then we took a strap wrench to the handguard.

same fucking story. more locktite than you could shake a stick at.

finally got that off after a fuckload of heat, and a 200+ guy lifting himself off the ground on the strap wrench.

same story for the god damned Izzy Brake.

After all that, I finally got to reassemble the rifle, with my new(ie ground down railed block) midlength handguard and a A2 FSB and the brake..

all this, so I could get a front sight.....Cause I'll be damned if I was gonna pay 60 buck for some ugly ass railed gas block front sight..
and I wanted a mid length handguard with a bayonet lug... :roll: (hey, I had 2 M9 bayo's I was issued and I wanted to use em)

I still need to go see if I can't get a good group out of the thing. Had some problems with groups opening up at... 50 yards.. : :? the first outing and havent' had a chance to get back out to the range.

But!

I really love the balance and handling of the rifle now. I want to build a .223 upper with the same setup so I can get some familiarity training for cheaper...

I mean I really like the setup.. (i have a larue 18" stealth, and this thing handles so much better.. could be due to the added weight.. and the damn near half inch hole down the barrel... :twisted: )

Image

For accessories I am just gonna add a rail to the handguard for a TLR-1 and call it good. maybe an AFG.. but I dunno...
PS that Hogue handguard is so damned grippy.. I love it.