Another Bolt Rifle under Construction

[Hoot]

...snip... All three came with early Freeland Adjustable Butt Plates having only vertical adjustment...snip...

I've installed a few Morgan pads for folks over the years. It kind of reminds me of one of them.

WRT the weight. For load development, heavy is not a sin. WRT the McGowan barrels, which a local acquaintance (NSS) is very fond of, I wonder it they could make me a RemAge barrel in 450b? I have a beautiful Remington 700 Thumbhole Varminter in 6mm Remington in the safe. Boringly accurate. From back when I was amassing boringly accurate bolt rifles for that Prairie Dog hunt that's on my bucket list. Probably won't ever happen with the daughter about to start college in a major that is hard to turn into money without 12 years worth of study. Anyway, I spent a month working up loads for it, then put it away. Has a nice Timney Trigger to boot. I've been considering pulling or having pulled, the 6mm Rem barrel and converting it to some RemAge calibers for switch-barreling like I do with my Model 12s. It comes out once a year to be cleaned, lubed, fondled and then put back in the safe. Damned BRD.

Hoot

[dogsniper]

Dave Manson is who I have spoken with about the reamer and go/no go gauges. McGowen is who is going to make the "pre fit" savage barrels for us. I do have a question, and I am hoping someone will have a good response to it...snip...

As a big Savage fanboy, that is tantalizing to know. I have two Model 12 Thumbhole Varminters with 4 barrels that I switch out on them depending upon what I'm in the mood for. It only takes a few minutes, a wrench and a headspace gauge to change them out. Less time than changing an AR barrel for certain. Anyway, if I didn't have so many irons already in the fire for this short northern comfortable shooting season, I might consider it though I'm not sure why since I have the bushy already and I for one, do appreciate the reduction in recoil that comes from a gas auto as opposed to a bolt-action. It might be interesting to load up some "suicide runs" that would not safely go in an AR, but just to see what you can wring out of the caliber with a 24" bull barrel. I'm afraid that my interest wouldn't last very long since I wouldn't choose to hunt it over the bushy. Still, it is tantalizing...

Hoot

I do plan on a 24" barrel, factory Savage "Varmint" contour. Probably a Simms or Decelorator recoil pad...some good SOLID scope mounts...and juice 'em up! I've never been recoil shy, and I just have a soft spot for bolt actions. No offense to all the AR fans, I completely understand and appreciate the value of the AR platform....I personally just LOVE a bolt action. I know it's old school and follow up shot are slower, etc, etc...Not trying to cause any form of debate about action choices...that's like trying to discuss religion! haha I figure I can safely go slightly higher in velocity/pressure than the factory loads, and not have any issues with the setup I am putting together. Even though factory specs are plenty for the hunting I will do with this rig. As soon as the reamer/gauges come in, and are sent off for the barrels (remember, I'm building three of these bad boys)! I will attempt to post pictures of these in the stages of completion. I think my dad's will actually be my pride and joy, as he's a lefty, and we acquired a left handed savage 110 with a detach mag. An older model...maybe 15 or 20 years old....the other two will be top load only.

[dogsniper]

Just got off the phone with Dave Manson....My reamer and go/no go gauges are ordered! Already refinished the factory stock and opened the barrel channel to fit the varmint contour barrel. I know I may have some minor "tweaking" to do on the barrel channel once the barrel is fitted to the action and I actually try to assemble it, but it should be very close. I will be glass bedding the action, as I do all my bolt actions. I have actually never tested "before and after" to see how much difference this truly makes, but with all the articles and info I have read regarding it, that is practically the first thing I do to any wood stocked bolt chucker. Manson reamers said possibly 8 weeks....so I will try to be as patient as possible these next few months...

[wildcatter]

Just got off the phone with Dave Manson....My reamer and go/no go gauges are ordered! Already refinished the factory stock and opened the barrel channel to fit the varmint contour barrel. I know I may have some minor "tweaking" to do on the barrel channel once the barrel is fitted to the action and I actually try to assemble it, but it should be very close. I will be glass bedding the action, as I do all my bolt actions. I have actually never tested "before and after" to see how much difference this truly makes, but with all the articles and info I have read regarding it, that is practically the first thing I do to any wood stocked bolt chucker. Manson reamers said possibly 8 weeks....so I will try to be as patient as possible these next few months...

Did you you mention my name to 'Ol Dave..

..t

[dogsniper]

Sure did, told him I was a member of this website, and that you were also a member and had been very helpful with questions I had regarding this build. Since Dave is from Michigan, he was very aware of the Indiana rule changes, and we spoke briefly about the various "new" cartridges some of the gunsmiths are creating that he has made reamers and gauges for. I have personally seen some of these cartridges at gun shows (i.e. The Indy 1500)...the last one I saw was a 358 Hoosier...the guy even had a set of Hornady dies already made up and on display...BUT, here is why I feel this cartridge our 450 is better!

1) No longer a "wildcat", factory brass is available, as well as factory rounds if you get in a pinch and can't get dies (they seem to be somewhat difficult to get)

2) .452 dia bullet at speeds near 2300fps (and beyond) = dead .... everytime

3) No need to buy brass and then trim it, neck it up (or down), or like on the 358 Hoosier, it used something crazy....one of Weatherby's brass, then it was cut practically in half, and reformed to this little miniature bottle neck cartridge, and from talking with the gunsmith, he pretty much admitted that forming the brass was VERY time consuming and somewhat difficult....not to mention you have to start with Weatherby brass, which in itself is unbelievably expensive.

No, I believe the 450 wins in my book based on all that...and I have a long term friendship with all 45 cal. My carry pistol...45acp, my deer pistol....45LC, my muzzleloader...452dia with sabot, and I aquired a new 45LC H&R Buffalo Classic a few months ago just because, and glad I did because that is now discontinued. Now, in the next few months, I will be able to add the 450bushmaster bolt action Savage to that collection.

My theory is: Big heavy bullets = the need for a good sharp skinning knife!

[commander faschisto]

Brother dogsniper has seen the light! Dittos from OKC...

[dogsniper]

Just an update on my Savage bolt action build.

My reamer and gauges came in about 2 weeks ago. They are now at McGowen Precision Barrels in MT. Having three barrels made, as I mentioned before, my dad and cousin (my two hunting partners) don't want me to "one up" them, so they are also going to have me build them rifles. We are having 24" barrel made...Savage pre-fits. I have already opened up my stock barrel channel and installed the Simms recoild pad. McGowen tells me the turn around time is about 8 weeks...so we shall see...

I'm getting excited...already have the Hornay dies, and FTX bullets...just need to order some brass. Going to start wit Lil'gun powder (cause I already have it for my hot load 45LC), and Hornady claims in their load data for the 450 that it gives good accuracy. My play with powder later, but right now I just want it so I can shoot it! Will keep you all informed.

Oh, question...does anyone on here have experience swapping barrels on a Savage 110? I think I saw someone post that they are pretty simple. I have the go/no go gauges, and am willing to purchase the barrel nut wrench. Just not sure if I will need the action wrench/barrel vise...and do I have to remove the firing pin from the bolt to properly headspace??

Anyone have suggestions? A local gunsmith will do it for $75 per rifle..but with three rifles, if it's something a guy with above normal mechanical aptitude can do...I'll save the money and do it myself.

[Hoot]

Just an update on my Savage bolt action build.

My reamer and gauges came in about 2 weeks ago. They are now at McGowen Precision Barrels in MT. Having three barrels made, as I mentioned before, my dad and cousin (my two hunting partners) don't want me to "one up" them, so they are also going to have me build them rifles. We are having 24" barrel made...Savage pre-fits. I have already opened up my stock barrel channel and installed the Simms recoild pad. McGowen tells me the turn around time is about 8 weeks...so we shall see...

I'm getting excited...already have the Hornay dies, and FTX bullets...just need to order some brass. Going to start wit Lil'gun powder (cause I already have it for my hot load 45LC), and Hornady claims in their load data for the 450 that it gives good accuracy. My play with powder later, but right now I just want it so I can shoot it! Will keep you all informed.

Oh, question...does anyone on here have experience swapping barrels on a Savage 110? I think I saw someone post that they are pretty simple. I have the go/no go gauges, and am willing to purchase the barrel nut wrench. Just not sure if I will need the action wrench/barrel vise...and do I have to remove the firing pin from the bolt to properly headspace??

Anyone have suggestions? A local gunsmith will do it for $75 per rifle..but with three rifles, if it's something a guy with above normal mechanical aptitude can do...I'll save the money and do it myself.

It's easy to do, but you need a set of head space gauges for your caliber, a barrel vise (you can make your own) and a barrel nut wrench. I have swapped them the morning of the day I was going out to do some shooting and swapped back that afternoon. Getting the nut off the very first time can go easily or hard, depending upon how mad the gorilla was at the factory the day your's was assembled. After removing it the first time and torquing it, per specification, back on makes it easier to do on subsequent occasions. You do not need to be even an amateur gunsmith to do it. I make my barrel vise blocks from old pieces of oak 2x4 and a Silver and Deming drill bit set. You do need a strongly mounted vise.

Hoot

[dogsniper]

Thanks Hoot,

I have the go/no go gauges...I believe this is the headspace gauges you refer too.

You said "torquing" to correct specifications....hmmm....forgive me here, but being a hobby motorcycle and truck mechanic, when I think of correct torque...I instantly think of my snap-on torque wrench....clearly this isn't gonna work for obvious reasons. So, please explain the correct torque? Something like....snug it up, then go a 1/4 turn? Or would I then be that angry gorilla you were talking about?

[Hoot]

Thanks Hoot,

I have the go/no go gauges...I believe this is the headspace gauges you refer too.

You said "torquing" to correct specifications....hmmm....forgive me here, but being a hobby motorcycle and truck mechanic, when I think of correct torque...I instantly think of my snap-on torque wrench....clearly this isn't gonna work for obvious reasons. So, please explain the correct torque? Something like....snug it up, then go a 1/4 turn? Or would I then be that angry gorilla you were talking about?

After you really clean both mating threads and apply antiseize compound, you hand tighten the nut. The Wheeler barrel nut wrench has a square hole in it to accept the square drive of a torque wrench. You set the wrench for 30-40 ft/lbs and the torque extension effect of the Wheeler wrench gets the nut just right when the clicker breaks. Others swear by hand tightening until it wont turn any more, then giving it one modest smack with a steel hammer. Not a dead blow, just a plain claw or ball peen hammer, steel on steel (the wrench). A big plus is having a quality recoil lug that is milled as opposed to a plain stamped out one the factory uses. The true flatness of the milled one makes for a more even distribution of torque around the entire rotational area. A good (flat) recoil lug isn't terribly expensive. Even if your barrel is blued CrMo, get the stainless lug if the place you buy it from offers one for the same price.

I personally torque mine to 30 ft/lbs since I take if off more frequently than say someone who is going to install a barrel and leave it on forever. Under no circumstances should you use LocTite on the barrel threads, even if you're putting your barrel on for what you consider to be, "forever". That's from Savage themselves. I have .223, .22-250, .260, .308 and .358 barrels that I switch between two Model 12 BVTH rigs. Haven't had time to mount and try the .358 since I bought it. Got the dies as well, but too many irons in the fire.

Hoot