Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

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Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby Tripplebeards » Wed Jan 30, 2019 9:17 pm

Since I bought my rifle new the summer before last I have had 2 optics slide rearward, the trigger housing holes hogged out so it rattles loosely from side to side, the magazine dropping out every couple of shots, and action screws keep comming lose in the three shooting sessions when I've taken it out load testing in the last year and a half. I ended up wrecking an optic because it slammed into the rings so I got a little frustrated and put the gun aside. I finally bought another optic and switched from warne maxima rings to leupold PRW. Used rosin on the rings and had a gunsmith install it. The new scope slid reward again in 12 rounds. I checked scope ring torque and action screws...they were tight. Kept shooting and the scope kept moving! Ruger did send me a replacement magazine last year. I finally had enough and sent the rifle back to ruger last week. When I removed the scope to send it back I found out the rear factory weaver rail screw closest to the bolt was finger loose. It has probably been the culprit the whole time causing everything to vibrate loose beside my stout loads. The rail barely contacted the top of my receiver! Just the outter four corners touched the top action. I could tell because it wore all the bluing off from vibrating. I blue loct tited it down. I asked ruger to inspect it. The ruger tech removed it, inspected,retorqued, and said it was fine. They shot the gun and said five shots with factory ammo make one big hole in the target at fifty yards. I asked it they would update the weaver rail with the new picantinny rail. They sent one along loose. When I received the gun back the new trigger had so much travel it felt like it was a 2 stage. I fixed it in a half hour and it brakes a crisp 18 oz. I went to remove the factory weaver rail they torqued and the rear screw was loose as a goose again! All the others were tight just like it was the way I found it the first time. So I don't know if the tech was messing with me or there is an issue with the screw or threads in that rear hole. The more I researched the rear loose bad scew issue I found out this is a common occurrence with the ruger American 450 BM. I called Randy's in Michigan and they said that all their guns now get the factory weaver rail loct tited before they leave their shop because they were getting a lot back with loose rear screws like mine causing the same issue. I went a step further and acraglass bedded the new updated picantinny rail in place and blue loctited all four new base screws in place. I'm sure some of the acra glass went in the screw holes and around the threads to lock it perminately in place this time. I also installed another set of medium Warne maxima rings again but this time I sprayed 3M 77 industrial grade adhesive inside the rings and let the adhesive dry for a good 10 to 15 minutes before mounting them to my optic and rail. I also cleaned and degreased the ring screw holes and screws again before blue loctiting them in place. New issue...When I removed the action Yesterday the pin that holds the bolt release in place fell out twice! I hate to say it but this thing is turning out to be a cheaply made, disposable firearm. The RAR is like a staw house in a tornado. When I talked to the Ruger tech who repaired it he told me this is not a target rifle and not made to be taken to the range and shot but a hunting rifle. That right there tells me its cheaply made for the average Joe that shoots four boxes of ammo through it in their lifetime and won't hold up if you actually bought it to shoot. Imagine that a gun made not to be shot! Lol! The other notes that he put in the system that were read to me before I talked to the tech direct was that the base screws were like car maintenance. Just like an oil change I was was responsible for checking screws. Well the oil change wasn't done correct before the car left the factory I told him and at the rate they were conning loose I would have to remove the scope every 12 rounds to check torque and then resight it in...rediculous! The first optic came loose halfway during the first range session. I still believe there is more going one with this gun causing everything to come loose. Either the rail is just so poorly contacted to the receiver it comes loose or something else like the action is flexing. The new trigger still has some play in it from front to rear, black paint chipped off by the safety, and rear paint smeared from excess overflow when painting the "s" and or "f". All in all I still love the light little rifle but it's almost as cheapy made as a kel tech I hate to say.

So long story short I'd tell everyone who owns a RAR chambered in 450 BM to do yourself a favor now that hunting season is over and bed your scope base or at least Lock tite the whole base to the receiver besides putting lock tite on the base screws because from what I understand it's not if but when it's going to rattle loose. Also put some type of sticky adhesive on your optic rings as well because rosin doesn't cut it with this rifle and round combo. The ruger tech said the 450 BM RAR's have been destroying optics non stop(which was no big secret) and to change over to a light straight tube shotgun scope. Less weight to try and shake loose. Well, that defeats the purpose of of buying this gun for 300 plus yards of precise shooting as far as I'm concerned.

Well my new base is acraglassed, base screws blue loct tited, the inside of my scope rings sprayed with ahesive and ring screws loct tited, and lastly I torqued my warne rings down a little harder to 35 in pounds instead of the recommended 25 per factory specs. 25 inch pounds felt a little wimpy, maybe the adhesive squishing didn't feel like it was tight enough so I gave it a little more love. I used my wheeler touque wrench this time so they are all even torqued VS tightening by hand to the point I would probably strip the heads. Blows my mind, I have the same optics mounted on my 300 and 375 RUM's that have not come loose with WAY more recoil.

I'll have to call Ruger again tomorrow to see if they can send me a bolt release pin or an oversized one that won't fall out.
Last edited by Tripplebeards on Fri Feb 01, 2019 8:44 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Batten down the hatches on your RAR 450 BM!

Postby Blackedout12v » Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:22 pm

I was gonna say I have a 300 rum that doesn't have these problems, and it kicks significantly harder than the 450, seems you already know this,lol.. guess now I gotta take the scope off the RAR and check things out. Just another thing on the to do list that I'm way to far behind on as it is. Thanks for the heads up!! Definitely seems at least with your rifle something is wonky. Hope you get it ironed out. Keep us updated
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Re: Batten down the hatches on your RAR 450 BM!

Postby Al in Mi » Thu Jan 31, 2019 5:17 am

I've only bought a couple of rifles that came with bases installed and none of the screws had Loctite let alone were much more than handtight. I pull down any gun I buy for a cleaning/degreasing/relubing before it gets a scope mounted. I'm not a fan of aluminum bases on anything with any amount of recoil, will replace them with a one piece DNZ mount (which I think is the best going one piece mount out there) or Locktited steel bases with Leupold PRW rings (I put a drop of oil on all ring screws) and torque everything to 40-45 inch pounds. Never had a scope move or base come loose yet.
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Re: Batten down the hatches on your RAR 450 BM!

Postby Hoot » Thu Jan 31, 2019 6:02 am

Though it doesn't sound like the nexus of the problem, I will simply say that I don't own a single aluminum base or ring and I have a lot of scopes. Secondly, while rosin is a good choice for immobilizing the scope to ring interface, I never use loctite on rings and don't even like using it on bases. I will use it on a customer's gun if they request but it is no substitute for a torque wrench. Most base to receiver screws run around 30 in/lbs. 20 in/lbs on the ring to base screws and 15 in/lbs on the ring clamp screws. Those are not absolute values but its important to note that steel screw holes can take that amount of torque (or more) and not distort. Not so sure aluminum can though. If a hole stretches, the torque value you use becomes inconsequential as it will lessen as they stretch with repeated use.

For those of you who already know this, I apologize. Judging from conversations I've had on the firing line with club members experiencing problems, not everyone does. This was for their benefit. Proper ring to scope alignment is an essential factor as well but there's plenty of reading material already dedicated to that online. It is important to stress that the less shock absorbing the stock is, the more your action will act like an inertial bullet puller on your scope mount.
Again, I apologize for covering ground that should be common knowledge.Image

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Re: Batten down the hatches on your RAR 450 BM!

Postby Tripplebeards » Thu Jan 31, 2019 9:55 am

Ruger took care of me again and is sending out a pair of new action screws since the ones in my gun have the bluing worn off and looked like the threads have either stretched or just wear and rear from vibrating loose and worn from recoil. They are also sending a bolt release lever kit since the pin keeps falling out of it when I remove my bolt when it's out of the action. I would assume it's the hole in the bolt release lever is hogged out just like what happened to my trigger group making it rattle. Now I just have to find my bottle of testers black paint to touch up the chipped off paint by the safety of my new trigger group...the way Ruger sent to back to me.

Ruger did tell me that the new updated picantinny rail is a lot stronger than the original weaver rail and I will be able to torque my rings down with more inch pounds and it will take the extra force...if needed...but it's still aluminum. It is taller and longer, I will give it that.

Hoot I don't blame you for not using lock tite...since your in the business of having to take things apart again. The ruger tech explained it to me the same way. But after two different optics sliding reward while using two different sets of rings...one warne maxima and the other leupold PRW, I'm not taking any more chances and eliminating any possible reasons that could cause my optic to slide again. I wrecked one on the Optics in the process and had to purchase another. I wasn't paying attention at the range when the first optic slid reward into my Warne ring cutting a big silver ring into the front optic bell. The scope would hold zero after that.
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Re: Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby CJP1 » Tue Feb 05, 2019 3:52 pm

Tripplebeards,
I have had the opposite happen to my original heavy scope on my RAR 450BM. Instead of sliding back like your scopes were, mine were sliding ahead. I now have a much lighter Leupold 3-9x40 VX2 and Burris Signature Zee rings with the inserts and the correct torque on the through bolts and caps with no more scope movement so far. I also have a CVA Scout which is much heavier than the RAR. I mounted my heavier Swift Premier scope on it and it slid ahead in my Burris Signature Zee rings until I applied the correct torque to the base through bolt and and ring cap screws. I'm sorry to hear of all the troubles that you have had with your rifle. I haven't heard of others rattling apart but that doesn't mean that it hasn't been happening. Maybe your rifle is just a lemon and Ruger should replace it with a new one. Have you asked Ruger about replacing yours? With all the trouble that you have been having with yours, I don't know why they wouldn't replace it.
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Re: Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby Tripplebeards » Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:48 pm

Ruger told me to use a light weight shotgun optic straight tube optic as well. Defeats the purpose for me. I might end up trading it in for 22" version now that it's up and running again and like new after the ruger repairs. I won't be running the Lee 300 grain bullet though it anymore since now that got it back it will jam when only one round is is the mag. I think Ruger switched my mag out with one with a weak spring. Too bad it shot MOA with the bullet but if I want a single shot I'll buy a number 1. I would bet everything I own that my optic won't slide loose after scope rail bedding and adhesive inside the rings. I just nee to figure out what gas check cast bullet will cycle in it reliable.
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Re: Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby CJP1 » Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:53 am

Tripplebeards,
Sounds like your best move would be to go to something with a longer barrel to get less barrel jump. There are at least 5 options that I know of and probably more than these:
Ruger American 450 BM
Ruger#1 450 BM
CVA Hunter 450 BM
CVA Scout 450 BM
Savage Wolverine 450 BM
FWIW: Just a thought if you are planning on buying new rifle and selling your RAR. It might be harder to sell if you lock everything down on the RAR.
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Re: Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby Tripplebeards » Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:18 am

It would get traded and I wouldn’t sell it with an optic. Stupidest thing you could do. You go no more money for it with a scope on it no mater how much you paid for it. I haven’t met a gun shop yet who has ever tried to remove a scope base while taking it in on trade.moving my optic? A three year old could do it. I paid more for my optic than I did the fifle. The gun was only $350 bucks. As far as I’m concerned it a disposable gun. It was a cheap mass produced firearm and wasn’t worth much new and even less now. I’m sure there’s going to be that someone who HAS to have it. But everything about it is cheaply made. It’s an entry level forearm to let the average Joe get into shooting and hunting. Cheap plastic magazine, a trigger group that rattles loose by design...my new trigger moves front to back ...and Ruger says it’s alright, bluing I can literally rub off if I clean it too hard. The new trigger they sent me has the black paint already chipped off of it. I’m sure when the time comes I’ll part with it but not too worried about it right now. If I want another one I’ll go buy a replacement since they are not expensive to begin with. It just probably won’t be be another American. I’m sure the American is alright in weaker vamint calibers but anything big game rifle with a plastic magazine is not worth owning in my book. I’d take an old H&R single shot over it that’s all metal and wood. Cheaper and better quality construction. A gun that will outlast me and generations to come vs plastic that has a limited shelf life. Live and learn. If Ruger would at least make metal magazines and magazine housings to stiffen them up they wouldn’t be to cheap feeling. All the manufacturers are trying to cut costs and make things cheaper to sell more guns. I might buy the gunsight model since it’s all metal and wood ( you forgot that one..,the only quality production 450 bolt action on the market)but would want a longer barrel.
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Re: Ruger American 450 bushmaster rattling apart

Postby Thom28 » Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:46 am

CJP1 wrote:Tripplebeards,
Sounds like your best move would be to go to something with a longer barrel to get less barrel jump. There are at least 5 options that I know of and probably more than these:
Ruger American 450 BM
Ruger#1 450 BM
CVA Hunter 450 BM
CVA Scout 450 BM
Savage Wolverine 450 BM
FWIW: Just a thought if you are planning on buying new rifle and selling your RAR. It might be harder to sell if you lock everything down on the RAR.


Tripplebeards,
There are a couple more options available from Randy's Hunting Center. He has both the blued and stainless Model M77 Hawkeye 20". Neither of these have a brake.
I can speak from experience on the M77 Hawkeye and the RAR 22" stainless. Neither of these rifle have the brake. On both these rifles the muzzle jump was awful. I sold the 22" to my nephew and I had a Gentry Muzzle brake installed on the M77 by Dick Williams Gun Shop in Saginaw. They did an excellent job. Bluing matched the Ruger deep bluing perfectly and they tapered the muzzle brake to match barrel diameter. The brake did a great job in reducing the muzzle brake without greatly increasing the muzzle blast.

Another option is the Savage Wolverine 110. I also have one of these rifles. It is a well made rifle and very accurate. I have never had any type of problem with this rifle. It is a little heavier so recoil in minimal.

It sounds like you may have gotten a lemon with your RAR. On the RARs I own, I have never experienced anything like the problems you are having. But before I mounted any optics on them, I removed the rail, de-greased and dried the mounting holes. Then used blue Loc-Tite on screw threads and let it set 24 hours before mounting the rings and scope.

Hopefully, your next rifle will be problems free. Good Luck.
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