Can't get it to shoot.

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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby plant_one » Fri Sep 01, 2017 9:40 am

ive got one of slashes XH's in my LR 308 when i got my mega barrel and it was helpful in taming the lock time there as well. still had to do an AGB to really tame it because its stupid bad over gassed, but at least i can fire factory ammo without shredding case rims now. i know how some of the 22 nosler ar folks feel.
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby powerhead357mag » Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:12 pm

Put an Odin adjustable gas block on. That definitely tamed the recoil quite a bit so I think it was over gassed. Still won't shoot great. About a 5in group at 100yds with factory ammo. The gun used to make one big hole at 100. I'm going to call tromix Tuesday and see what they say. I even swapped upper receivers.
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby plant_one » Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:50 pm

have you confirmed your rings and bases are tight? 5" with factory ammo is crazy.

it'd be a real booger if it was just a loose scope ring screw somewhere.


check em all to 20 in/lbs

might even want to swap another known good scope into the mix just to see!
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby Al in Mi » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:39 am

Scope and or mount be my guess since it use to shoot great for you.
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby powerhead357mag » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:42 pm

Everything was put on with tq wrench to specs and loctited. Also tried different scope and mount. Same results. Both scopes are trijicon accupoints and both are in bobro qd mounts. The scope are also not sliding under recoil, I always paint pen all places that can move so it can be noticed easily. I'll call tromix on Tuesday and see what they say
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby Hoot » Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:02 am

The benefits that come from having broken in you bore, vary from manufacturer to manufacturer in terms of how many shots it takes. My original 450b with its chromed chamber and bore didn't settle into its groove until somewhere around 200 rounds IIRC. Groups tightened up some but it always was easier to clean. I didn't realize the latter fact until I got a second CrMo barrel. The chrome bore, despite what some AR aficionado's claims, was trouble free through 2000 rounds.

The factors which govern the tightness of reload groups are many. Individually, each may only be a small amount, but they stack up to take 1 MOA capable amunition and turn it into to 2 MOA. Wet tumbling your cases removes some of the contributing factors that I used to deal with in post cleaning processing. Most of those small factors are nuance but the crimp is the big ticket. Attention must be paid to having enough without too much but equally important is consistency from round to round. The crimp influence upon group size goes up as the bullet weight goes down.

My rules of thumb are as follows:

Never use the flaring die. Never.

For smooth walled, jacketed bullets, keep the taper crimp at .476. There's no place for the brass wall to go deeper with a smooth walled bullet. You just wind up distorting the bullet into an hour glass shape.

For cannelured bullets like the 200 and 225 FTX, seat them so that most of the cannelure is just below the mouth with a little peeking out and taper crimp down into it with a resultant diameter of .474-.475. That should be measured as close as possible to the mouth using a micrometer. If you can only afford a digital caliper, that will have to do. Consider getting a micrometer. you can find high quality, name brand ones on Ebay for about the cost of a couple of boxes of bullets if you try and it will serve you a long time.

For solid copper bullets with driving bands and their accompanying grooves, seat them similarly so that a groove is mostly below the mouth peeking out. You can easily crimp down into the groove to .474. IMHO, there is no added improvement to accuracy going smaller, even though you can. The sharp shoulders on those grooves provide an excellent gripping opportunity. In the case of really light bullets, a firmer hold will increase velocity but if those really light bullets are smooth sided, its hard to hang onto them enough to get consistent ignition.

If you want factory ammo results, use the same primer as the factory. I have one type of primer that I use. Remington 7 1/2 small rifle primers. When I find something that works well, I don't look any further. The nickel price per primer difference is not going to stop me from reloading.

There is no substitute for testing at the range on a stable bench however. Real world results always trump theory (see sig). ;)

We all have range sessions where the results tell us that we would have been better off doing something else that day. It happens....

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In Theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In Practice, there is.
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby jgilesg » Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:38 am

Hoot
Have you gotten away from the stab crimp or is the info for those that don't have one, or are you only using it in certain applications, or lastly, is it because it shortens brass life?
Thanks
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby powerhead357mag » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:00 pm

The barrel has just over 1k rounds through it. And before I crimp I'm already at .475 on the barnes rounds so I just barely bump the case to .474. that sound about right? I'd hate to think the tromix barrel is shot out at 1k rounds
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby Al in Mi » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:23 pm

Give the barrel a good cleaning and check your crown.
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Re: Can't get it to shoot.

Postby powerhead357mag » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:31 pm

Al in Mi wrote:Give the barrel a good cleaning and check your crown.


One of the first things I tried.
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