Reloading start up

[Jmeier1981]

So Ive got a buddy that reloads some 450 stuff for me but I hate bugging people or relying on them to do things for me and Ive always wanted to do some reloading... Soo what would I need to reload 450? And what kind of cost would I be looking at? Ive got a pretty decent scale that I use for my smokeless muzzy but thats about it.
Also with 450 being straight cased... Does that make it easier or harder to reload?

[offrink]

I use a single stage press, dies, primers, powder, brass, a caliper and bullets. Since you already have a scale. A reloading book is a good idea. Straight walled cases are easier than tapered.

[Hoot]

Also, I recommend some kind of case lube. I'm quite fond of Imperial Sizing Lube. Not as fast as Hornady One Shot, aerosol spray but Imperial is slipperier that loon $h1t. Cleaning your cases is a good idea. For jobs of 25 cases at a time or less, a good solution is to buy a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight and a bag of SS pins or chips and you're all set to turn out cases that look as good as new, both inside and out. Watch for a sale on the Harbor Freight rock tumbler or use one of those 30% off one item coupons that come in the mail or in magazines. I used pins for a year or two before discovering the SS chips from Southern Shine. They are more aggressive than the pins and cut your tumbling time for around $25.00 (shipped) for a lifetime supply.

Hoot

[plant_one]

how long were you tumbling with pins vs chips?

i mean.. i usually only wet tumble for 60-90 mins (depending on how nasty the brass is) to acheive results that would take overnight in treated walnut...


also hows the primer pockets look with the chips? i know the pins do a knockdown job of it.



fwiw - the Frnakford "Lite" tumbler is on sale right now for $99... that'll do up to 300 pcs of 223 sized brass, so probably 200-250 450's at a time
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ ... ia-tumbler)

same price on amazon with free shipping if you're a prime member
https://smile.amazon.com/Frankford-Arse ... 07KT8NQS8/

[Zad Fnark]

I tend to go with Lee. They're a Wisconsin company and I'm inclined to support them. Never had issues with their stuff. Their dies work fine with .450B and I like their factory crimper.

Often times, if I order early enough, I'll have the order the next day.

My favorite lube is Hornady's spray (one shot). I find it works far better than Lyman's stuff.

I do use other stuff. For my olde .50-70 Government, I have to go with Lyman for that.

[Hoot]

how long were you tumbling with pins vs chips?

i mean.. i usually only wet tumble for 60-90 mins (depending on how nasty the brass is) to achieve results that would take overnight in treated walnut...
also hows the primer pockets look with the chips? i know the pins do a knockdown job of it.

I graduated from the HF rock tumbler to the full size Frankford before giving the chips a try, so I can't say how much time the chips save in the HF rock tumbler. I used to deprime and tumble dirty cases, sometimes with a lot of sooting residue on them, for 90 minutes with the pins, depending upon how many cases I had amassed for a load. With the chips, I've dropped back to 60 minutes for a similar load and if I wasn't looking for that NIB clean, I probably could drop back a little more. I don't obsess over the time much so my observation is somewhat laissez-faire. Its good that you mention the primer pockets. The pins did a little better job at 90 minutes than the chips at 60. Not like there's chunks left behind, but definitely not Spic-N-Span. Doesn't affect primer seating depth, just a small amount of stain left in a star burst pattern around the flash hole. Either way is a horse apiece in terms of clean necks inside (=more consistent tension). I still have my pins but have not tried a duplex load of both to see if one compliments the other. Chips are a little cheaper than pins but considering how long they last, its not a real factor. Either media as you observed bests an overnight shake in walnut media other than the high polish that walnut leaves on the outside.

One caveat. Wet tumbling gets the cases so clean that they tarnish rather quickly in storage. I don't vacuum seal them, preferring instead to store them in cleaned quart JIF jars. Their lids are not airtight by any standard. Never had that with my walnut media. I have around 350) 450b cases sorted by cumulative CHG and how many times they've been reloaded. Some sit for quite a while before getting reloaded, especially since the abundance of new bullets to experiment with has dwindled. Not my go-to caliber for casual plinking.

Hoot

[303hunter]

I use Lee dies for the 450 with great results. I’ve heard the there were problems with the first production dies, but that should be over by now. I also use walnut media for cleaning. My set up has been paid for a long time, and I just can’t see spending more for SS. If I was just starting out, id definitely invest in the stainless tumbler though.

[plant_one]

One caveat. Wet tumbling gets the cases so clean that they tarnish rather quickly in storage. I don't vacuum seal them, preferring instead to store them in cleaned quart JIF jars. Their lids are not airtight by any standard. Never had that with my walnut media. I have around 350) 450b cases sorted by cumulative CHG and how many times they've been reloaded. Some sit for quite a while before getting reloaded, especially since the abundance of new bullets to experiment with has dwindled. Not my go-to caliber for casual plinking.

Hoot

one thing i've found to help minimize the loss of luster is REEEEEELY backing off the lemi-shine. for 5 lbs of brass i'm only currently using 1/10th tsp to a quart of water & about a tbsp of dawn, and could probably cut the lemi shine in half again if i wanted to or cared enough lol

they dont have to be amazing bling, like you - i'm just out for a good clean case, in and out.



well and i *hate* scraping primer pockets








to the OP - one of the biggest perks to wet tumbling, no lead or heavy metal dust floating around your reloading room from dry tumbler media.

all that schmoo that you would have been breating in 20 years ago is now safely encapsulated by the Dawn dish soap

so there truly is more than just shiny brass in play here

[Bmt85]

One caveat. Wet tumbling gets the cases so clean that they tarnish rather quickly in storage. I don't vacuum seal them, preferring instead to store them in cleaned quart JIF jars. Their lids are not airtight by any standard. Never had that with my walnut media. I have around 350) 450b cases sorted by cumulative CHG and how many times they've been reloaded. Some sit for quite a while before getting reloaded, especially since the abundance of new bullets to experiment with has dwindled. Not my go-to caliber for casual plinking.

Hoot

one thing i've found to help minimize the loss of luster is REEEEEELY backing off the lemi-shine. for 5 lbs of brass i'm only currently using 1/10th tsp to a quart of water & about a tbsp of dawn, and could probably cut the lemi shine in half again if i wanted to or cared enough lol

they dont have to be amazing bling, like you - i'm just out for a good clean case, in and out.



well and i *hate* scraping primer pockets








to the OP - one of the biggest perks to wet tumbling, no lead or heavy metal dust floating around your reloading room from dry tumbler media.

all that schmoo that you would have been breating in 20 years ago is now safely encapsulated by the Dawn dish soap

so there truly is more than just shiny brass in play here

I remember reading an article where the author tried wet tumbling to get away from the dust of regular tumbling. He had an issue with consistency in his reloads, and accuracy overall. So he somehow heard of, or thought of using rice in the vibratory tumbler. I guess he gets no dust and the consistency and accuracy he was looking for. I have been meaning to try it, but haven't got around to it. I have only wet tumbled, so don't have a vibratory tumbler to play with.

I have a Rebel 17 for wet tumbling, and I also only use a small amount of lemi-shine. About a pinch. I found that really prevents tarnishing of the brass when it sits.

[Bmt85]

To the OP question, I say a Rock Chucker Supreme single stage press, Hornady dies, and a decent electronic scale to start.
Maybe add a Lee universal decapper and Hornady lock rings. I like to decap my brass before I wet tumble and size them, so I use a Lee universal decapper. Also really helps when decapping crimped primers! The Hornady lock rings are just a much better way to set your dies. a little pricey when changing a lot of dies over, but much better then the O-ring lock rings (lee's) and the RCBS set screw ones.