450Bushmaster.net

Dillon case lube works 100 x's better that the Alox that comes with the Lee kit.

Just in case you were wondering.

I've been using Imperial Sizing Wax.

Hard to beat the long time favorite, Imperial Sizing Wax. Maybe you guys could exchange a little of each others poison, say maybe in a zip lock bag or something and then the both of you weigh in on the subject??..t

+3 for the imperial sizing wax. A little bit goes a long way.
BD

I should have some imperial sizing wax around somewhere. I know I bought some, but I haven't seen it since I opened the box it came in from midway a couple years ago.

I just figured the Alox stuff was made for this kind of thing, but I hated using it. So today I decided to try the dillon spray lube and it made a world of difference in the process. Even the Barnes Solid resized easily.

STP works quite well.

I have heard the Dillon case lube is pure Lanolin cut back with 98-99% alcohol.

For the last few years I've used Bag Balm (ok, knock if off guys ) for all of my resizing, brass and bullets.

Al in Mi wrote:STP works quite well.

I have heard the Dillon case lube is pure Lanolin cut back with 98-99% alcohol.

For the last few years I've used Bag Balm (ok, knock if off guys ) for all of my resizing, brass and bullets.

do you use it for BALL ammo?


ok, just kidding. thanks for this thread guys i was just thinking about getting started on reladig the 450b and this will help alot.

Al in Mi wrote:STP works quite well.

I have heard the Dillon case lube is pure Lanolin cut back with 98-99% alcohol.

For the last few years I've used Bag Balm (ok, knock if off guys ) for all of my resizing, brass and bullets.

Are you referring to the commercial stuff in the green tin, made in Vermont?
John

All in all, I do like the spray lubes because of the ease of application. I like them for cleaning and lubing of our weapons as well. Just spray a little into an action and the mist will migrate to everywhere you need it. And I use mostly automotive stuff. Like carb or brake cleaner, to break our soot and then any kind of automotive spray-on silicon based lube, for a protectorate lube, but for that job and cold weather, give me the full synthetics. But then there are spray lubs and then there are spray lubs, if you get my meaning.

Did that Dillon lube allow you to draw those 325gr Hornadys' or the Barnes in one pass?

By the way, just for the record, what we are calling Swagging is actually Drawing (and I'm afraid I am guilty of bastardizing the language in this matter myself). Swagging is when you are bumping the bullet up to a larger diameter, which is something you can do if you are making bullets from scratch. If one were to Swag, say an already made 230gr bullet to 458, you could expect jacket destruction, as it comes out of the die, or jacket separation in flight or certainly, on impact. I've seen all three cases, every time we try it. As an aside, those, so called cry baby gurus (they are ex-perts,, not good enough to be real perts..wink) on the other channels, that have been following your progress in our drawing projects, are thinking they can just bump our bullets up to 458, they are in for a big surprise, especially if the jackets come off in the bore and they follow up with another shot..oop-sie.. The bad part of it is, they are going to wound and have allot of animals get away, to die somewhere else..t

I still did it in two stages, 0.454 then 0.452 but it was soooooo much easier that I didn't have to do them in steps like I described earlier. It was pretty easy really. Before I kinda dreaded doing the barnes solids, now it's eezy-breezy.