Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

General Reloading Discussion.

Moderator: MudBug

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby paulmark3010 » Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:01 am

Going to try to drill the cutter out this weekend. I cleaned my brass up and trimmed one. Have not tried to chamber it yet. The reamer should be in the mail today. I was looking on Guns America last night and found 50 284 new brass for $30 free shipping, so could not pass up on that. Now I have a question before I begin reaming this once fired and the new brass. Do I need to fireform it first? If so, do I do that with just the primer or do I put a small bit of power in wtih the filler? What about sealing the round. Is wax the preferred method? Thanks. :twisted:
paulmark3010
 
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:46 pm
Location: Spring, Texas

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby Hoot » Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:29 am

paulmark3010 wrote:Going to try to drill the cutter out this weekend. I cleaned my brass up and trimmed one. Have not tried to chamber it yet. The reamer should be in the mail today. I was looking on Guns America last night and found 50 284 new brass for $30 free shipping, so could not pass up on that. Now I have a question before I begin reaming this once fired and the new brass. Do I need to fireform it first? If so, do I do that with just the primer or do I put a small bit of power in wtih the filler? What about sealing the round. Is wax the preferred method? Thanks. :twisted:


No, since you're going to ream them, you do not need to fireform them. That was a technique tried as an alternative to reaming.

If you need to fireform a case, without a bullet in it, you typically use a primer, a small amount of pistol powder, filler and a means of retaining everything inside the case. I use Mike Milli of DTECH's method which is to use the filled case like a hole punch on a Styrofoam coffee cup. It cuts a snug fitting disk when pressed through the cup and the disk inside the mouth keeps the contents inside the case like this:

Image

Make no mistake though.You can not chamber a round by allowing an autoloading action to slam it home. The plug and contents will pull from the case and make a mess. I hand feed them by hanging into the charging handle and easing it forward, then tap it into battery with the FA.

Hoot
In Theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In Practice, there is.
User avatar
Hoot
 
Posts: 5083
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Minnesota

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby paulmark3010 » Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:47 am

Hoot, thanks for all you help. :twisted:
paulmark3010
 
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:46 pm
Location: Spring, Texas

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby Hoot » Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:53 pm

Not to send yet another thread off on a tangent, but WRT the Styrofoam plug, I departed from Mike on one aspect. I had a case where the primer pocket got loose, so I sharpened the mouth, mounted it in a Lee lock stud for the 300 WSM and spinning it in a drill, actually cut out a bunch of the disks from a cup. Their shape and edges were more precise that way. After charging a case, I placed one of the disks on the mouth, started it with the pad of my finger and then pressed it down to the filler with the butt end of a 9/32 drill bit. The plugs stuck well enough that I didn't worry about transporting them to the range and having them dislodge.

Hoot
In Theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In Practice, there is.
User avatar
Hoot
 
Posts: 5083
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Minnesota

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby paulmark3010 » Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:37 pm

Good News, Bad News then Good News Again:

Good News > I was able to drill the cutter with a cobalt drill bit. Actually two. I drilled one size at a time.

Bad News > Even with my best effort using a drill press, I was off just ever so slightly. The reamer has a slight wobble. I am not happy.

Good News > RCBS makes a cutter already drilled for Forster shanks. I just ordered one.

:twisted:
paulmark3010
 
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:46 pm
Location: Spring, Texas

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby paulmark3010 » Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:35 pm

I got the RCBS cutter sized for a Forster pilot today. The Forster reamer works great on my RCBS trimmer. My 284 brass is 1.70 long. I will be using Rem 9 1/2 primers. How much do I need to reduce my load compared to the small primers? I will be starting with 250 FTX and LG. In my 16" I was getting about 2150 fps with 250 FTX and 37.9 gr of LG using WSR primers. Any help would be appreciated. I also have some 240 XTP mags, 200 FTX and 225 FTX. Thanks! :twisted:
paulmark3010
 
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:46 pm
Location: Spring, Texas

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby Hoot » Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:45 pm

paulmark3010 wrote:I got the RCBS cutter sized for a Forster pilot today. The Forster reamer works great on my RCBS trimmer. My 284 brass is 1.70 long. I will be using Rem 9 1/2 primers. How much do I need to reduce my load compared to the small primers? I will be starting with 250 FTX and LG. In my 16" I was getting about 2150 fps with 250 FTX and 37.9 gr of LG using WSR primers. Any help would be appreciated. I also have some 240 XTP mags, 200 FTX and 225 FTX. Thanks! :twisted:


I'll go out on a limb and say if you were not at the maximum safe top of the load range, the primer difference will not be dangerous with LG. That having been said, definitely chrony it and determine exactly what the impact is. The problem there being that you are changing other dynamics of the load at the same time going from Hornady 450B brass to .284 Win brass, it could result in stacking tolerance differences outside the safe zone.My advice would be to drop 2 grains and work back up. LG loves hot primers.

Hoot
In Theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In Practice, there is.
User avatar
Hoot
 
Posts: 5083
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Minnesota

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby pitted bore » Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:51 am

Hoot wrote:Not to send yet another thread off on a tangent, but WRT the Styrofoam plug ...

Following Hoot's tangent a little further --

For fire forming, I've tried a lot of case sealers over Cream of Wheat, including wadded tissue & paper towels & TP, three different kinds of glue, silicon sealer, paraffin (both melted and cut), candle wax drippings, and even stryofoam. The best material I've found is Dairy Wax. We used some a couple of months ago in forming 8x58RD from 8x56R for a very old European Rolling Block rifle.

Dairy wax is the coating on some cheeses that seals them against atmospheric oxidation, and prevents mold growth. It's usually colored red or yellow or black. I get my supply in ready-to-use form by buying the cheeses at the grocery store and peeling the wax off the cheese after it's sliced. The wax is sticky and tacky, and the thickness is just about right for sealing cases. I store the peels in a jar with a tight lid, and the tackiness seems to last a bit longer. (If you're doing hundreds of cases, the dairy wax is available cheaply in chunks that need to be melted and poured to form a sheet: amazon.com will get you started.)

In use, after stuffing the COW (or grits) into the case, just press the wax sheet over the case mouth, and it cookie-cutters nicely to seal the case. It sticks to the brass very well, altho I haven't tried chambering a case from the mag in a semi-auto. I might try a double wad plug if the case were going to be thumped around.

--Bob
_________________________________________________
Pic of cheese slice with red dairy wax coating
Image
User avatar
pitted bore
 
Posts: 700
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:05 pm
Location: The U.P.'s U.P.

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby Hoot » Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:01 am

Very ingenious! I like that it's already in sheet form. Having peeled my share of the stuff, my take on it is bee's wax, with perhaps a little oil blended in to make it even more malleable and tacky.

Every shop should have a chunk of bee's wax in it, as it's quite useful. One of my favorite uses is holding SS screws on a screwdriver. Mag tips don't work with SS for the most part. I nick the screwdriver tip in the wax to pick up a small speck and the adhesiveness makes the screw stay on the bit for those times when I have to reach in a space where my other hand won't fit at the same time. Most effective with phillips bits. It's also useful for lubing saw blades and dremel burrs.

I gotta million of 'em folks... Image

Hoot
In Theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In Practice, there is.
User avatar
Hoot
 
Posts: 5083
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Minnesota

Re: Reamer for 284 Winchester Brass

Postby pitted bore » Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:29 pm

Hoot wrote:Very ingenious! I like that it's already in sheet form. Having peeled my share of the stuff, my take on it is bee's wax, with perhaps a little oil blended in to make it even more malleable and tacky.
Hoot-
More tangency:
As best as I can discover, the wax on cheeses is some blend of paraffin and microcrystalline waxes.
http://igiwax.com/index.php?page=microcrystalline-wax/
People were waxing cheese long before petroleum chemistry and oil refining were developed, and beeswax was probably the wax used then. I haven't tried pure beeswax to seal case mouths for fireforming. Beeswax seems a lot more temperature sensitive than the cheese wax, and since I have a lifetime supply of the latter, I may stick (ha) with that.
--Bob
User avatar
pitted bore
 
Posts: 700
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:05 pm
Location: The U.P.'s U.P.

PreviousNext

Return to Reloading

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests