Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

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Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby commander faschisto » Mon Dec 26, 2016 2:35 pm

Guy I ran into at the range has one of these kits from Tubb...should've thought of getting one before Christmas...oh, well.

This uses NiB powder to coat bullits instead of moly+wax system...doesn't rub off, not sensitive to moisture, slicker than moly, first shot from cold/hot barrel stays "in the group", cuts fouling....

Pretty cheap, too...$47.00 for a kit that will do 3,000 300-grain bullets, or 10,000 55-grainers...

Gonna try it out with Barnes all-coppers (copper is "sticky" anyway) and Hornady GMX's

http://www.davidtubb.com/bn-boron-coating
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Re: Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby Hoot » Mon Dec 26, 2016 7:13 pm

I have been shot peening HBN bullets for several years. Is that the same stuff? I noticed Tubbs leaves the Hexagonal part of the name off. Definitely not the same as NiB, which must be electro-plated to copper. Even did a basic proof of concept on 450b bullets. Despite them being super slippery, velocities were lower than uncoated bullets of the same. Best guess is the rounds need more barrel friction to reach peak pressure (=velocity). No copper buildup though! I use them more often in smaller caliber rifle bullets. An added bonus is adding a half teaspoon to your motor oil when you change it. The engine is very peppy after dong so, but you have to order the super fine (0.5 - 1.0 um) version of the powder so it doesn't get trapped in the oil filter. I buy it by the pound and split it with guys at work. Great in my air compressor oil also and mower and 4-stroke weed wacker. A little of the powder rubbed on sliding windows and patio door tracks works wonders as well. Lots of uses... Image

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Re: Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby commander faschisto » Mon Dec 26, 2016 9:10 pm

Interesting info there, Hootster...have you ever tried TufOil in engines/gears? It is amazing stuff...

https://www.fluoramics.com/tufoil/


But, I digress...this NiB coating from Tubb I think would be most useful for those loading all-copper boolits...copper being what it is, you start to see buildup after only a few rounds (ten or so) in the bore, visible to the naked eye, at least in my relatively limited experience. Not sure what all-brass slugs do in regard to fouling, but it has a lot of copper in it...being alloyed probably changes the "sticktion" tendency of the copper, though. I don't recall anyone trying brass out of the 450b...? The all-brass Xtreme Penetrator 245 gr. .452" from Lehigh Defense (specifically marketed for the 450b) would be a good test case, I think. Hmmm...sounds like a fun project!

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/174360 ... -box-of-50
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Re: Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby Hoot » Tue Dec 27, 2016 6:06 am

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Re: Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby Pig_Popper » Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:45 am

Whats the latest on your use of this for 450bm ?

Did you end up treating the barrel as well or just the bullets ?

Does Tubb's kit mention the micron size of the HBN ?

What type of media are you tumbling/vibrating the bullets with?

Thanks
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Re: Better boolit coating system for you reloaders

Postby Hoot » Mon Feb 13, 2017 6:43 pm

Pig_Popper wrote:Whats the latest on your use of this for 450bm ?

Did you end up treating the barrel as well or just the bullets ?

Does Tubb's kit mention the micron size of the HBN ?

What type of media are you tumbling/vibrating the bullets with?

Thanks


I thought I read somewhere that they used 5 micron, but I can't recall where. It doesn't have to be as small as the stuff I buy. Bore coatings change after each abrading shot goes down them. Bullet coatings stay the same. The only bore coating I ever saw that you could do yourself, without investing in some elaborate and expensive equipment was Moly Fusion. you just needed a hot barrel and elbow grease. I don't know if the fellow who used to sell the concentrated paste will still sell it. It is nothing like MoS2, WS2 or HBN. More of a chemical reaction than a rubbed in/on coating. You could see the steel surface change visibly after properly applying it. The drawback in these modern times was that it was less and I mean a lot less effective in SS than CrMo barrels. About the only way to get it out is JB bore paste and a lot of elbow grease. Not that you'd want to. IIRC, it did not impact velocity as much as it reduced lead or copper buildup in the bore. It did tighten up groups as the bore fouling didn't change much from the first shot until the last, so the resistance stayed close to the same from cold bore to the last shot. You really needed to have that bore spic-n-span before applying it. It did not work over top of lead or copper fouling. Once again I digress... :roll:

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