450Bushmaster.net

First: I’m in no hurry. If it takes a few more minutes that’s fine.
 
Next: if a load is published, even if it’s from 1998 or 1975, it should be a good load? I don’t load maximum powder charge for fun/target shooting and I generally will hunt with factory for now.
 
So: if I weigh every load, the “how to measure” question is moot since I’m ultimately going by weight, right? I might start with a volume measure, but every charge will go on the scale.
 
(Sub question: “magnum” primers can be used in place of non-magnum primers by decreasing the powder charge by a grain?)


 
 



Dad gave me a bunch of powder and primers.

So...Dad got out of reloading a long time ago, eh?

I see a lot of nostalgic eye candy but I'm superstitious about actually using superannuated components. Recipes yes, components no.
I would never substitute a magnum primer with just a powder tweak.
While its a good idea to use a dipper to pre-charge your scale, buy or make a powder trickler for the last few grains. It'll save you some pain on the brain. I think there's a how-to thread here somewhere on making one out of a film canister and a plastic soda straw.

Hoot

EDIT: In hindsight, check the idea of using a plastic soda straw. Static Cling may be an issue. Scrounge up a metal tube instead. Used aluminum arrow shafts would be a good starting point.The local True Value Hardware stores have hobby metal, brass tubing as well.

plastic soda straw shouldnt be an issue


thats one of the mods for the RCBS chargemaster to help it drop stick powder more consistently.

i - along with many others - have used that mod for years now without any ill effect. although one of these days i do need to break down and get one of the nice brass inserts instead... but for zero cost... i reduced the over throw rate by a HUUUUUGE amount... its almost non existent now unless i fumble and bump the bench and knock a bunch of kernals out.

https://www.primalrights.com/library/ar ... ster-combo

this is the basic method i used, although i have the front of the straw crown cut and not flat like that.

Hoot wrote:So...Dad got out of reloading a long time ago, eh?
.

Decades.

We/I’ve kept loading shotgun shells the whole time, but Dad’s not really a handgunner and the move to Iowa put us in a good deer hunting situation (so we stopped going to Pennsylvania). But that meant switching to shotgun slugs- until last year. So, my interest in handguns and the ability to use a rifle now in Iowa (I LOVE my Bushy and as soon as someone makes a barrel I can afford, I’m building a 350 Legend upper) means reloading brass. If I can use up these old cans of powder- which smell fine- no acrid odor or anything- and primers- which go {bang} and shoot flame out the barrel...

I think storage is the key to the powder. If well sealed and stored well I would be ok with it. I have shot lots of military surplus ammo made in the 1930's and 40's. OTH, there has been some of similar ilk which was crap. Inevitably the cause of the failed types was poor storage conditions. I would be a little wary of cans less than half full tho.

Some designs are better than others, but none produce "perfect" results. What do you call perfect, and how are you measuring? Consistency of throws is a result of particle size, technique (consistency and type) and measure design. In order to improve technique you will need to do a lot of practice with a very good scale.
https://www.gunsafespot.com/best-powder-measure-reviews/