Siringo wrote:I am going to get a hold of a micrometer instead of the caliper to take more accuracte measurements. I will post those along side of the charge/velocties that I took. That might be a week before I can get to that though. I will also be taking velocities/measurement on the two most accurate charges areas. Namely -- 29.0 to 29.3 (29.1) and 31.3. to 31.6 (31.4).
BTW -- I purchased a .454 sizing die so I could go from .458 to .454 to.452. Still tough for this bullet. Must have a thicker jacket than most. Maybe I should buy a .457 from Lee and hone it out to .456 and do this in 3 steps. Also, the bullets I recovered out of the sand held together with no jacket separation and that was going from .458 to .452 in one step.
Ok 'ol man, your going to have a hard time honing from 457 to 456, I think that's in reverse, ain't it?. Suggestion, get another .454 and moto-tool, flap it out to 456. For those of you that don't know what I'm talking about, here goes. This is not for Siringo, he's an 'ol hand at this stuff and probably has a better method anyway and if any of you do, I want to hear all about it..us 'ol dogs, can be taught.
Your Dremel Type tool, with a 1/8th inch collet, will polish quite nicely. Making a flap wheel is easy as it is effective. I use a 1/8 x 3" Cotter Pin, but a wood doll rod with a lateral slice can also work well.
Take a sheet of emery cloth and rip about a one inch wide. Spread the cotter key, just enough and insert one end of the strip of emery only enough to have the pin hold the strip. Rap the emery strip around the pin, so the grain is exposed. After you have rapped the pin and inserted it into the moto-tool and assuming you have it rapped in the right direction, insert this rapped pin into the hole to be reamed. This should have some resistance while the pin is rotating. If you have too much cloth, rip some off. Now, with the tool spinning at high speed, just stroke the flap rig in and out, but never coming all the way out, until you're done. This all can be done with a drill motor too, it's just much slower.
To flap out 2 thou, which is allot, start with 180 grit, nothing coarser, because those heavy grains will score your surface more the the 2 thou you're trying to take out and you'll never be able to hone out those scratches, without going over the desired bore diameter. Graduate to 240 grit and then 360, you'll usually never need to go finer than 360 to get a mirror finish, but if you do, do it. Measure often and you'll get to the desired bore diameter and it didn't take too much to get there either.